The rules of makeup. Something that is always a hot topic, and something that, as a makeup artist, I get asked about a lot. “Is it okay to pair a bold lip with a smokey eye?” “Can I use warm tones and cool tones in the same eye look?” “What shade of blush should I be wearing?”
As far as I’m concerned, there’s no solid rules. If you want to wear a black smokey eye and red lipstick, then same girl, I love that shit. If you wanna dust your pretty cool toned cheeks with a peachy blush, you do you honey. As long as you’re not contouring with bronzer, I ain’t gonna judge you one bit.
That doesn’t change simply because you’ve hit ‘a certain age’.
So many women think that once they get past mid 30s that they have to tone down their makeup. No more black eyeliner, let’s switch that up for a soft grey or a brown. Red lipstick? Oh no, how about a soft pink. Excuse me, but fuck that.
Age doesn’t change your ability to pull off certain looks. Sure, maybe you have to adjust it a little, but everyone has to adjust looks to fit their face.
Of course, if minimal makeup is what you feel comfortable in, then that’s absolutely fine. I’m simply saying, don’t feel that’s what you’re restricted by. If there’s a look that you’ve been wanting to try for a while, but haven’t because you feel ‘too old’ for it, then just try it. Even if you just wear it around the house.
To prove my point, I have a look to share with you that I created on my mum the other day. I’m not currently able to wear makeup, as my eczema is going cray cray & I resemble a lizard. So, knowing that I was getting frustrated at not being able to upload anything on instagram, my mum volunteered her services. Which was timed well as I’d just received my Beau Belle 35 Warm Glow palette, (which I reviewed here,) and I was dying to play with it.
So before I show you, let’s talk a little bit about my mum and her skin. She’s 45 years old, with dry/combo skin. She has fair skin with neutral/warm tones, and has natural freckles. My mum has really bloody good skin for her age and I hope that I have as few fine lines and wrinkles when I hit my 40s.
She has talked in the past about how she sticks with the same makeup routine because she knows that’s what works for her. I think this is something we all get caught up in at one point or another. We get a quick routine that makes us look put together, and we rely on that because it works and it’s safe. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, but don’t trap yourself into thinking that’s the only look that works.
I wanted to create something on mum that was very different to what she would normally wear. She likes Rimmel’s Azure Blue eyeliner, a bit of mascara and a pinky lip. It’s a good look on her, the blue liner makes her eyes pop, and the pink lips give her colour. But I wanted to show her something new.
As you can see, this is a look that’s pretty far removed from her usual.
Most women of a similar age would most likely shy away from a black liner, smokey eyes, metallic lids and a bold lip. Separately or all together, but I think we can all agree that this is a look that works.
Here’s a product breakdown:
– Nyx Honey Dew Me Up Primer
– Revlon ColorStay Foundation (Normal/Dry) in Buff
– Urban Decay Naked Weightless Complete Coverage Concealer in Fair Neutral
– Collection Pressed Powder in Ivory
– Contour Kit from ebay, from a brand called Mother Home.
– Makeup Revolution Golden Sugar Palette (the matte bronzer)
– Makeup Revolution Radiance Palette (Exhale)
– Freedom Pro Blush Makeup Peach and Baked palette
– Nyx Dewy Setting Spray
So, a product list is all very well and good, but I also want to talk to you a little about my process and why I chose to do certain things.
- I used a dewy primer, as I wanted a natural skin finish and the foundation I was going to use is rather full coverage.
- To further keep the more natural finish, I chose to buff the foundation in with a dense rounded flat kabuki brush, rather than a flat foundation brush. A flat foundation brush is perfect if you want to retain a full coverage, but a denser kabuki brush blends into the skin and evens the tone but doesn’t give a flat and mask-like coverage.
– I think one of the most aging things in in foundation. Too heavy a coverage is going to settle into your lines no matter how well you set it. Also, as we age we lose some of our skin’s natural luminosity. A heavy coverage is going to rob your skin of whatever luminosity you’re left with, which makes the skin look flat and powdery. No matter your skin type, I always advise against this.
- I also took my dampened beauty blender over the forehead, jaw, around the nose and the smile lines to take away any excess product. Excess product is going to crease throughout the day in these areas and emphasize any existing wrinkles or lines.
- I used a very light hand and some ashy taupe coloured powder through the brows as I feel a more naturally filled brow much more flattering on more mature skins. An overly defined brow can often look harsh and take over the face completely rather than framing it.
- I kept the under eye concealer to the minimum. Had there been any under eye pigmentation, I would have used a peachy corrector under the foundation to neutralize any discolouration and to brighten. However I didn’t need to and simply wanted to highlight the area a little. I always think it’s better to start with small amounts of product under the eyes and slowly build if necessary. It’s always easier to add than to take away, and too much product will settle in any fine lines and will age the eye rather than brightening.
- I ‘baked’ the under eye to set the under eye products so that they wouldn’t move throughout the day. I made sure to pack a lot of powder underneath to catch fallout from the eyeshadow. I never use tape or shadow shields on myself or on anyone else. The skin around the eye is incredibly delicate and removing tape can very easily damage it. Loose powder just brushes away, taking the fallout with it.
- I started the eye look by using neutral tones in the crease. This serves to ground the look and help blend warmer or cooler tones into the skin.
- I used warm orange and copper tones to bring out the blue in mum’s eyes. Orange is the complimentary colour to blue, so will they make each other pop.
- I like a shimmery lid on anyone. I especially like a shimmery lid on a more mature skin. I know so many people shy away from this, but shimmer catches the light and brings light to your eyes. Plus, if you have some… crepeing on the eyelid, a foiled shadow is going to disguise that due to their texture.
- Since the eyeshadow was quite bold I wanted to ground it with a winged liner. Which may sound counter-productive when I talk about grounding, but it gives structure and definition. Plus, a winged liner is a sure fire way to bring attention to the eye. Don’t shy away from the black, it’s much more flattering than you think, just keep it balanced.
- When creating a winged liner on hooded lids my biggest advice is to use small, slow strokes and map the wing out whilst the eye is open. With your eye open, you’ll know where the crease rests and how that will effect the eyeliner. If you’re nervous about getting the wings even, map the wing out with a kohl liner as that is removed a lot easier than liquid or gel.
- To open up the eye I used a white eyeliner on the waterline and then I blended a dark, warm brown in the lower lash line. This makes the eyes look wide and bright, but gives definition. I blended this out with a neutral shadow to give a smooth blend into the skin. You can use a cream coloured eyeliner for a less stark waterline if that’s your preference, it will still have the same effect.
- Using a lash curler and a good coating of mascara gives length and volume to the lashes and frames the eyes.
- I used a very soft contour to bring definition to the cheeks, jaw and temples. Honestly, this was only because I knew I was going to be taking photographs in unnatural light. I wouldn’t have otherwise. I am not a fan of contouring for everyday.
- Because I used warm tones on the eye, I chose to keep the rest of the look warmer. I used a light dusting of bronzer on the high points of the face to give a sunkissed glow. Then, with a very light hand, I dusted a small amount of highlight to give a radiant glow. I popped a warm peachy blush on the apples of cheeks too. This blush isn’t shimmery but has a slight glow to it, which looks very healthy on the cheek.
- This is an eye look that would pair well with lots of different lip colours with different finishes, but I am a sucker for a bold lip. I chose a red toned brown to keep the look warmer, and to not look too dark, then popped a little of an orange red in the center of the lip to bring fullness to the lip and to pop the look even more.
- A spritz of a dewy setting spray gets rid of any loose powders still sitting on the skin, stopping any caking. Plus your blush won’t disappear 2 hours after you apply it. Bonus!
Now, if you’ve managed to make it this far, you deserve a cookie. I think I may have given away all my tips and tricks in one blog post. I best shut up shop right now 😉
Ha! See you next time lovelies, go put makeup all over your face.